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Saturday, February 28, 2009

Little Bangledesh

Had dinner with a friend in the Bangladeshi area of Kensington today, where I used to live. The old Italian restaurant just got turned into a South Asian place. They were having some trouble with the equipment, so we ate across the street.

I hadn't been there in about 5 years, but it's one of my favorite areas of the city, and its commercial drag, Church Avenue, is my favorite street in New York. I wrote a project for grad school about four census tracts in the neighborhood a few years ago. Even though I've taken a lot of the raw data out of this, you might not want to read more than 4 or 5 paragraphs unless you're as big a demographics nerd as I am. The 2000 census is hopelessly out of date in an ever-changing city like New York, but the general patterns that emerge from the combination of data and on-the-ground observation still pretty much hold.

When learning about a neighborhood, hard data and personal observation are partners. If you only use one of these tools, it's like trying to watch a movie with only sound, or only picture. And unless you know how to use the two well together you'll never have a very accurate picture of a neighborhood.

A couple weeks after September 11th, I was walking around the town, as is my hobby. While walking through a section of Brooklyn that seemed to be a regular old Joey Bagadonuts kind of neighborhood, I came across a weird street. There were two blocks of Dahill Road where every single house had an American flag flying or in the window, and every car parked on the block had a flag flying from the antenna or a flag decal in the window. This wasn’t your average borough block at the time, where maybe 2/3 of the houses had a flag flying. I’m talking every house, every car, with sometimes even more than one flag.


I headed east over to the next street, McDonald Avenue, and figured it out. Half the block was a commercial strip, and the preponderance of business were Bangladeshi. I headed back over to the two blocks of Dahill Road and was able to figure out pretty convincingly that this was an almost 100% Bangladeshi residential strip (and later I found out that this little area was indeed sometimes called “Little Bangladesh.)” The community had obviously decided to overcompensate in their patriotism out of fear of being targeted in the aftermath of the destruction of the World Trade Center. I was reminded of the Israelites in Egypt who painted lambs blood on their door to mark them as Jews, in order to have the Angel of Death “Pass Over” them when the firstborn of Egypt were being killed. It was almost like the American Flags were meant as a signal to mark the residents as Americans in order to have others “Pass Over” their houses if people started getting violent.


I ended up moving to that area, and as I got to know the neighborhood more, I noticed that it had an incredible variety of ethnic businesses and residents. And it seemed like, for the most part, everyone got along great. But did they really? That walk through the neighborhood after September 11th haunted me. If everyone really got along, why was there a need for such a blatant overdisplay of patriotism on the part of one specific immigrant group? That’s when the question of “how diverse or integrated are these seemingly great communities really?” first came up for me. And even if these types of neighborhoods were truly integrated, how long could they last, especially when in times of uncertainty and stress?


Kensington faces enormous population pressures from different areas. In addition to having a somewhat younger population than the rest of Brooklyn, it’s at the crossroads of several growing communities. There’s a growing Hassidic population West of the area. There’s a growing Caribbean (mainly Haitian) population East of the area. There’s a growing Yuppie population North of the area. There are several growing immigrants communities already in the neighborhood. And the older white ethnic population does not seem to be moving out in the same kind of numbers as in other communities.


There’s several ways Kensington could go – it could become a de facto part of Hassidic Borough Park. It could become a de facto part of Caribbean Flatbush. It could become the latest neighborhood to be “discovered” by the young professional crowd. One of the immigrant communities in the area could start to dominate and crowd out the others. Or, it could conceivably go on like it is now – one of the great, multiethnic communities of New York.


Kensington was originally settled by Dutch farmers, and development started in 1851. One of the oldest bars in New York City is at the corner of Church and McDonald, but other than that there’s not much in the way of historical significance. In the 1920s mass homebuilding began and attracted upwardly mobile immigrants, as it still does today. It was considered part of Flatbush for much of the 20th century (back when half of Brooklyn was considered Flatbush), and you will still occasionally see signs on neighborhoods businesses that refer to the area as “Flatbush,” such as the Flatbush Dental Center on Church Avenue. In the 1980s various waves of new immigrants began to displace some of the older white ethnics, and today Kensington is one of the “Melting Pot” neighborhoods of Brooklyn.


Almost the entire area is part of the Ocean Parkway special zoning district. Most of the area is zoned R-5, with some special zoning, such as an R-7A district along Ocean Parkway, a wide, residential boulevard on the eastern end of the neighborhood. There’s a small M-1 district in the southeast corner of the neighborhood. The character of the neighborhood is much like other borough neighborhoods I like to call “one car” neighborhoods - i.e., neighborhoods where an average family will own one car (although in actuality the slight majority of occupied housing units do not own a car). It’s mainly two-and three family homes and small apartment buildings. Ocean Parkway, Beverly Road, and a couple other small areas have larger apartment buildings. The area is somewhat underbuilt, with many large houses where small apartment buildings could be, and if population pressures continue, downzoning may become an issue in the future. Church Avenue on the north is the main commercial district, with small commercial drags scattered throughout.


The neighborhood is really two distinct areas in terms of housing and housing stock. Unfortunately they aren’t easily divided up by census tracts. In many borough neighborhoods throughout the history of New York, a certain demographic has lived in the apartment buildings along the avenues (almost always renting), and another demographic has lived on the side street in smaller 2- and 3- family homes (usually owned by one member of an extended family). The best example of this that I know of is Bensonhurst, where in the 1950s and 60s the Jews lived in the apartments along Bay Parkway, and the Italians lived in the houses on the side streets. The question comes up as to if this can truly be called an integrated neighborhood. Even though you have both populations living in the same census tracts, they are vastly segregated by type of housing. And indeed, people tell me that in general, the Jews and Italians each kept to themselves in that neighborhood. Kensington is divided the same way. Is it similarly ethnically segregated? That’s a more difficult question to answer with the demographic data available to us, but does go to the heart of my question earlier – is this a truly integrated neighborhood?


Along Ocean Parkway there are large rental apartment buildings, usually built pre-war and containing more than 20, and sometimes more than 50 units. The tract with the greatest percentage of it occupied by Ocean Parkway, tract 494, has 83.9% of its units occupied as rental housing. Most startling is its whopping 0% rental housing vacancy rate. This indicates pretty good, and perhaps underpriced, rental housing. Indeed, the fact that all but 58 units of housing in this district were built before 1979, and therefore probably subject to rent regulations, also indicates that the supply of rental housing along Ocean Parkway probably rents for under market value. As we all know, this kind of situation can lead to great upheaval and change in a neighborhood as landlords try and push out existing tenants in order to try and raise rents to market rates and maximize profits.


Contast this tract with tract 486 on the east, none of which borders Ocean Parkway. Here only 6.7% of units are in buildings of 20 or more units, and there are no buildings of 50 or more units. It is also only 73.9% renter-occupied, and has a 3.1% rental vacancy – both numbers are about on par with the rest of Brooklyn. However, note another significant percentage – the 0% homeowner vacancy rate.


This best illustrates the two different types of housing stock in Kensington – older, pre-war, large apartment buildings mainly on Ocean Parkway which seem to be very desirable, and older two- and three-family homes on the other streets – equally desirable. Caught somewhere in the middle are the small apartments buildings, or perhaps secondary units in the houses, that seem to be par for the course for Brooklyn.


One thing that seems to be consistent is the turnover. Almost half (46.7%) of residents in 2000 moved in 1995 or later. High turnover, low vacancy rates, not a lot of new housing being built – the housing squeeze is on. Add to that an increase of 2,171 people from 1990 to 2000. That’s a 12.3% increase in one decade. And only 100 housing units were built during the same time.


The 12.3% increase is mainly a result of the 57.6% of the population that is foreign-born – including 6,576 people, or just over 1/3 of the total population, that arrived between 1990 and 2000. Who’s been coming? Well, everybody. There are 18 different countries that more than 100 people in Kensington call their place of birth. And there are at least 24 different languages spoken in the neighborhood. In terms of numbers, the most significant immigrant groups are Russian (1,664), Bangladeshi (1,051), Mexican (877), Pakistani (858), Ukrainian (798), Haitian (624), and Polish (569). As an aside, there is a large Hassidic community as well, as is evidenced by the fact that 582 people in Kensington speak Yiddish (although that could also be the elderly Jewish population) – and in fact, the ATM machines at the bank on Church Avenue operate in 8 languages, including Yiddish. The Jewish Community Survey, as well as on-the-ground observation, indicates that a large portion of the Russian and Ukrainian population is Jewish.


Look at this – it seems to be the ideal diverse neighborhood. You have a large Jewish population, large Muslim population (the Pakistanis and Bangladeshis), and large Christian population living alongside each other. You have significant immigration from 4 continents. You also have a fairly racially diverse neighborhood – 48% white, 12% black, 13% Asian, 17% Hispanic, with 10% being other or multiracial. And Kensington takes pride in its internationalism – for example, the elementary school on Avenue C is nicknamed “The International School.” However, in an indicator of segregation, 1322 people were born in sub-Saharan Africa or the non-Hispanic Caribbean. Subtracting these people from the black population at large leaves Kensington less than 5% African-American. And if you also discount the children of these immigrants, the African-American population would fall even further. Since black/white segregation – and particularly native white and native black segregation – remains the stubbornmost barrier to true integration here in New York, we must acknowledge that Kensington hasn’t truly conquered the problem of racial and ethnic segregation here in New York City.


Kensington is a working neighborhood – at least for the men. There’s a lower percentage of females in the work force than the rest of Brooklyn and New York, but the male population in the workforce is about average for the borough and city. This might be explained by a couple of things – the lack of African-Americans, who tend to have higher proportions of females in the workforce, the high levels of immigrant men in the workforce, and perhaps even cultural differences among the religious Jewish or other populations. Kensington is fairly educated, with only 24.5% of its residents over 25 holding a College Degree, compared to 21.8% of Brooklyn residents, and 27.4% of New York City residents. When you look at Masters, Professional, and Doctorates the same pattern emerges – Kensington has 10.4% of its population holding these degrees, as compared to 8.8% of Brooklyn and 11.6% of New York. High School Graduates and above keeps to the pattern – 71.5%, as opposed to 68.8% for Brooklyn, and 72.2% for New York City. This has to be looked at in context however – this is a heavily immigrant neighborhood, and three out of the four census tracts have median household and family incomes at least $2000 lower than the rest of Brooklyn ($32,561 household, $36,295 family) and $8000 lower than the rest of New York City ($38,519 household, $42,235 family). The percentage of people living in poverty is 26% - more than the 25.1% for Brooklyn (although it’s not statistically significant) and more than the 21.2% for New York City (which is statistically significant). As a result, the education statistics are pretty noteworthy. Either you have an educated immigrant population not earning up to their level of education, as often happens, or you might have some of the Park Slope spillover – educated young people not yet in their prime earning years.


In terms of occupations, Education and Health services are the largest industry group, with sales and office workers being the largest occupational group. There are a larger percentage of people occupied in the private sector than Brooklyn as a whole, a smaller amount in the public sector, and about the same amount of self-employed people. The lack of public-sector employees is again explained by the heavy immigrant nature of the neighborhood.


Kensington is the best example of why Demographic studies of neighborhoods – especially in New York City – cannot be done without a direct, ground-level knowledge of the areas. It would be close to impossible for even the most skilled demographer to make heads or tails of the kinds of data that encompasses the four census tracts I picked. However, when combining the data with a survey of the neighborhood, patterns start to emerge. You can see the internationalism and diversity of the area (as reflected in languages, immigrant population, and countries of origin), however you can also see its “average Brooklyn” kind of character (as reflected in its economic and labor data). Despite the population and housing pressures it is under, Kensington still remains a multiethnic neighborhood accessible to people of average means, as I believe it will in the future. There are some barriers to true integration – the lack of African-American residents, the tendency of the various immigrant groups to cluster in one type of housing or along one or two blocks (which is difficult to gather from the census data but obvious while you’re there), and of course, the telling need for a specific immigrant group to be identified as “American” were tensions were high. However, even with these things to heed, it’s as close to being an ideal “melting-pot” neighborhood as any I’ve been to in New York.



Neighborhoods: Kensington, Little Bangladesh. Tacts Walked: B486, B488, B490, B494

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Northeast Queens

An uneventful walk through a lovely, if somewhat nondescript area on lovely, if somewhat nondescript day. There's a show at Queensboro Community College to see the Flying Karamozov brother, who I loved as a kid (and one of whom played the flute at my parent's wedding), so I take the #7 to the end of the line and walk it over to Bayside. There's some interesting architectural details on Tudor-style apartments, the kind of stuff Kevin Walsh of Forgotten-NY would love (I loved it too, but not enough to keep track and write about it), some interesting industrial areas in north Flushing, and a pretty good Sri Lankan restaurant at the end in a little South Asian corner near Kissena Park. But really, it was mostly just a way to get some census tracts in in an out-of-the-way part of town. 28 to be exact - only 79 more walks like that and I'm done!

Neighborhoods: Flushing, Whitestone, Bayside. Tracts Walked: Q889.01, Q889.02, Q867, Q1161, Q1159, Q1157, Q1155, Q1151, Q1147, Q1141, Q1175, Q1159, Q1129, Q1459, Q1429, Q1451.01, Q1451.02, Q1447, Q1441, Q1399, Q1403, Q1409.01, Q1409.02, Q1417.01, Q1207, Q1203, Q1205, Q859

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Idiotarod 2009

EDIT: Here the video of running through Queensbridge

This was my first Idiotarod - we were the "Tourists from Tallahassee," bribing judges with Empire State Building tickets and fresh squeezed OJ screwdrivers. I was the crotchety old tour guide. The whole thing was loads of fun - I had been needing a day of doing something silly for no particular reason.

The route was pretty good - from the East River waterfront on the Upper East Side, over the 59th Street Bridge to Long Island City, then north straight through the Queensbridge projects (that was fun - a couple hundred arty Hipsters dashing through the biggest housing project in New York) to the park by the river. Down Vernon to Hunters Point, then over the Pulaski Bridge into Greenpoint, finishing by the water at the northern end. Lots of pictures on Flickr. None I can find of our team yet though.

Neighborhoods: Long Island City, Upper East Side, Queensbridge, Hunters Point, Greenpoint. Census Tracts: M106.02, M110, Q25, Q37, Q1, Q7, B563, B565, B575

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Solstice Walk

With the folks at www.burnsomedust.com we set out on an all night walk through the longest night of the year - 14 hours and 46 minutes.

Matt had a great concept for a route, which was to do a random draw. We'd all put vague destinations in a hat (A Christmas tree, the beach, Japanese gummy candy), and rely on our collective knowledge of the city to find them, inventing our own route along the way. No maps, no google phone, just us and New York. In winter. In the dark.

I loved the idea, and was looking forward to using my City Skills to the max in some unfamiliar areas. However, every self-respecting NYC urbanist can navigate Manhattan and Western Brooklyn in their sleep. And that was out problem - we started in the furthest corner of western Brooklyn. Going east through Brownsville and East NY was vetoed by some folks in the group for safety reasons (I know it's 2008 and we're with a dozen people, but I don't really blame folks for not wanting to wander around Brownsville at 3:00 AM). So we ended up basically in the familiar realm of west Brooklyn and southern Manhattan all night. You can see our route and a writeup here. Highlights include midnight sledding in Prospect Park, seeing crazy Christmas houses and taking the group up on a little bit of the High Line which was fun.

I got a few census tracts in Borough Park in, but for the most part this was simply an exercise in walking endurance, not exploration. Because of this, I had brought a couple extra pairs of socks and my old sneakers along. The best moment came when one guy's boots started falling apart, and my old sneakers just happen to fit.

After 29 miles, we finished at Stuyvesant Cove - nobody was going back my way, so I hoofed it back to the #6 train. So let's call it an even 30.

Neighborhoods: Tracts Walked:

Friday, April 4, 2008

Lexington Avenue

As I've mentioned, I'm not big on pictures here for a lot of reasons, but if I've got a good one sometimes I'll throw it in. Here, you can see almost the entire route of this post, straight down Lexington from Hunter College to Gramercy Park.

I've done this walk a million times after getting out of class. Lex on the Upper East Side is pretty nondescript - townhouses on the side streets, the Armory, and assorted stores and restaurants. One you get south of 60th street it becomes a little more noteworthy - Bloomingdales, the Bloomberg Building (where I thought I has a hookup to go on the roof a few years ago), the Citigroup Center with St. Peter's Church under the corner and the metal detectors they put you through just to go in the shopping concourse. A bit further and you're past 42nd street, which holds the last big landmarks of the walk in the Chrysler Buildings and Grand Central Terminal, and into Murray Hill.

The these two landmarks also hold two of last few places interesting places I really want to visit that I haven't yet: FDR's old secret platform in the Grand Central Yards underneath the Waldorf-Astoria, and the Chrysler Buildings Eagles. FDR's secret platform is mostly just a matter of me being lazy - it's easy enough to get to. The eagles will probably be a little tougher. I've been up to the old Cloud Club in the Chrysler Building on the 67th floor, but never out on the 61st floor balconies. If anyone's reading this from the law firm up there, hook me up, won't you? And avert your eyes when I climb out onto the gargoyles. You gotta do what you gotta do. I promise I won't pull a Thor Axel Kapphjell

On 38th I pass the Cuban Mission to the UN - a police booth is on the corner. The corner is named "Esquina Brothers to the Rescue" - an anti-Castro emigrant group. It seems a little childish. I wonder if there's a proposal in the works now to rename the corner of 35th and 1st (where the Chinese Consulate is) the Dalai Lama corner.


I keep heading on down to the Indian restaurants in the lower 30s (no favorite, although in general a better place to go than East 6th street), and then through the nondescript 20s until I get to Gramercy Park, where I recently spent a morning pedaling around Ed Begley Jr. in a Pedicab - well, actually pedaling around the cameraman for the piece. Ed was nice enough, but didn't tip.

There's a guy sitting in there smoking a cigar, obviously enjoying being somewhere the common folks don't get to go. One night a few years ago I got frustrated with this kind of stuff, as I often do, and jumped the fence just to say I've been in there (the same night as this adventure). My other plan was always to stay at the Gramercy Hotel where you get the key, measure it, and cut another one later. But the recent remake of the shabby old place into a chichi boutique hotel (try reading this description without throwing up. And notice times the owner throws his name in there in a desperate attempt to try and make himself a celebrity) - has put that idea out of my current price range, as is buying one of the townhouses or becoming a member of the two private clubs. It also used to be open one day out of the year in May, but that's shelved as well. Rumor has it Christmas Eve it's still open for a couple hours.

Still, it's a lovely area, former home to Edwin Booth (a 19th century actor memoralized by a statue in Gramercy Park, and the guy who's brother shot Abe Lincoln), Washington Irving, Humphrey Bogart, John Barrymore, and John F. Kennedy. And the fence to the park is easy enough to jump, even if there's not really that much to see inside. As with most exclusive things, it's really only noteworthy for being exclusive.

Neighborhoods: Upper East Side, Midtown, Midtown East, Murray Hill, Kips Bay, Turtle Bay, Gramercy Park. Tracts Walked: M50, M68, M72, M80, M92, M100, M112.03, M114.02, M120

Monday, March 24, 2008

Bay Ridge

Doing a subway research project for a mapping firm in San Francisco finds me in Bay Ridge at 11:00 at night with some excess energy - what better way to exhaust it than to knock off a few more tracts?

There are a lot of churches (including a beautiful Episcopalian one at 99th and Ft. Hamilton Parkway), and a lot of really cheesy clubs in Bay Ridge. One such club advertises "Tila Tequila winner Bobby" appearing. That, and the gorgeous view of the Verrazano, pretty much sums up the neighborhood. It hasn't really progressed that far from its Saturday Night Fever days.

I mostly walk up Third Avenue with a few side street detours. I haven't been to Bay Ridge for a while (I used to schlep down to a great Greek place on 86th and 4th every once in a while), and kind of thought it would have changed more demorgraphically than it has. The neighborhood isn't quite as Arabic (the newer immigrant group in the neighborhood) as I thought it would be, the Irish-Italian, Joey Bagadonuts character strongly remains, much more so than in other Southern Brooklyn neighborhoods. Layout is your typical borough variation of mixed-used avenues, large apartments on the corners, and homes on the side streets. Some side streets, especially west of Third Avenue, feature large detached homes, others more simple rowhouses. I make my way by the out-of-place Bay Ridge towers, under the Robert Moses-built monsterous merger of the Gowanus Expressway and Shore Parkway, and over to the 59th street N stop to head back home.

Neighborhoods: Bay Ridge, Sunset Park. Tracts walked: B162, B54, B56.01, B56.02, B58, B60, B62, B64, B66, B68, B70, B72

Monday, March 17, 2008

Heart of the Stuy

Up Nostrand, back down Marcus Garvey. Around the southern part of the area there's some really lovely Brownstone blocks - Stuyvesant Heights seems to be the sub-neighborhood. Some blocks are even landmarked as part of Stuyvesant Heights Historic District, but I don't see any of the telltale brown streetsigns. This is also the oldest African-American part of Central Brooklyn. As far back as the 1940s the greater Stuyvesant Heights area - basically between Atlantic, Lafeyette, Bedford, and Malcom X Blvd - was predominantly African-American, while neighboring neighborhoods like Brownsville were still 80% Jewish.

Central Brooklyn 2008 is a far cry what it used to be. Everything's developed - empty buildings or storefronts area at the very most one per block. A vacant lot filled with old bicycles was really the only reminder of the old Stuy I ran into. Still, Bed-Stuy is the kind of place that varies greatly from block to block. If I had turned right rather than left a couple of times I might have had a different idea of the area. In New York, even within an area as small as a census tract - or even a block - there can be really different kinds of areas.

I'm always interested to see who gets up this far out into the hood. There's plenty of local folks I don't recognize. Of the All-City types, JA is (of course) up a lot, and I see a DRO tag (old though) also. I also see a KUMA tag, and I have to say, I'm beginning to revise my estimation of the guy as only being up in Lower Manhattan and North Brooklyn. Surprisingly I run into no Jesus Saves tags. Other than maybe JA, Jesus Saves is the most All-City guy out there, although I've never seen him in tunnels, or really anywhere off the street.

The neighborhood turns from Brownstones (and the occasional other interesting architecture - some Tudor apartments and and what appears to be an old armory turned into a men's shelter) into projects as I go north. There is none of the Hassidic bleed down south of Flushing over here like there is around the Marcy Projects - Flushing avenue still serves as the dividing line between African-American Bed-Stuy and Puerto Rican/Hassidic Williamsburg.

I also take in a few tracts south of Atlantic in Crown Heights. What's interesting to me is that the Lubavitchers have no presence north of Eastern Parkway, even around Brooklyn Avenue where the community is centered. I go nuts for a Hassidic lady in a tight long jean skirt pushing a stroller down Eastern Parkway. The Lubavitchers are definitely becoming more and more secular influenced in dress and lifestyle. I wouldn't even really call them Hassidic anymore (although definitely frum) - they're more of their own strange thing. It's hard for me to tell where Crown Heights becomes predominantly Caribbean rather than African American - again, I'm going to go nuts for the 2010 census data.

Neighborhoods: Crown Heights, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Stuyvesant Heights, Williamsburg. Tracts Walked: B339, B341, B313, B269, B267, B265, B263, B261, B259.01, B257, B507, B283, B281, B279, B277, B275, B273, B311, B343